Starting a nature-friendly allotment (2024)

Starting a nature-friendly allotment

Just getting started? Check out our handy guide to help you along the way. From preparing your plot, working out your soil type and deciding what to plant, you'll have all you need to get going!

Congratulations on getting started on your allotment!You might have taken over a plot full of growth, or a patch of earth. Here you'll find lots of useful information to help you along the way.

Read on to learn:

  1. Preparing your plot
  2. Work out your soil type
  3. Decide what to plant

Starting a nature-friendly allotment (1)

Prepare your plot

Before you start growing, you will need to prepare your plot.

  • Clear weeds – Be thorough when you clear weeds from your plot.
  • Plan the area – Four beds is the classic configuration for crop rotation purposes.
  • Measure your beds – Tailor the width of your beds to your arm's length, so that the middle of each bed can be reached from both sides without standing on the soil. Plan to make each bed no more than 1.5m wide.
  • Plot your paths – Paths are best created with woodchip, cardboard and woodchip, or compressed soil. Standing on soil will compact it, reducing space for oxygen and making it harder for roots to penetrate. Keep a plank of wood handy to spread the load if you need to step into your bed. The pathways through your plot should ideally not be grass, as it will creep into your beds.
  • Make your bed - Raised beds are a better option if the soil quality is poor and easier on the back. The downside to raised beds is that using timber adds cost, and can be a haven for slugs.
  • To dig... or not to dig – No dig approaches to supressing weeds can be a great way to preserve the structure of a soil. If you want to follow a no-dig approach, lay down a thick layer of mulch such as cardboard* sheets then add copious amounts of compost on top. If supressing or digging over weeds or grass, allow a couple of months to pass before planting into the bed so that the plants have had time to decompose properly.
  • If digging, mark out your bed and dig over to a spade’s depth, partially filling trenches with compost before backfilling.

After preparing your plot, cover it as you wait for it to be ready to plant up.

Starting a nature-friendly allotment (2)

Work out your soil type

Knowing the soil type will help you choose what you should grow and what steps are needed to improve it.

  • Clay soil is heavy, difficult to dig, difficult to plant into, often poor drainage BUT retains nutrients well and gives roots a good anchor.
  • Sandy soil tends to dry out due to coarse crumbly texture so struggles to retain nutrients. Seeds germinate well as sandy soil heats up more quickly than heavy.
  • Loamy soil is a mixture of sand, silt and clay – probably the most desirable soil type.
  • Soil pH could be worth a check to see if the soil isn’t too acidic or alkaline.

Feed the soil. Having an allotment is as much about growing soil as it is fruit and veg. As well as thinking of how and when to feed plants, you should constantly look to improve the health of your soil:

  • Increase organic matter by regularly adding compost and mulch – this improves fertility, water retention, soil structure and biological activity.
  • Grow green mulches on beds not in use.

Starting a nature-friendly allotment (3)

Decide what to plant

Perennials – it may be worth planting certain perennial herbs, flowers and fruit first. They will have lifecycles of many years and would become a permanent feature in your allotment.

  • Fruit – rhubarb, gooseberries, currants, raspberries take 2-3 years to produce, so plant these early.
  • Perennial herbs – rosemary, mint (keep contained), sage, thyme have culinary uses but are also great source of flowers. Plant alongside annual herbs such as chive, dill, coriander and parsley.

Herbs and flowers - incorporate a wide variety of herbs and flowers for.

  • Pest control (deterring and luring away from your crop).
  • Natural predator food.
  • Encouraging pollinators.

Rotation crops (annuals) – Rotational planting involves planting in groups to improve soil health and optimise nutrients in the soil. Leave a three-year gap before the same group returns to the same spot. Use four main beds to group the crops as below

  • Potato family – including tomatoes, aubergines and peppers
  • Legumes – peas, broad beans and French beans etc
  • Brassicas – broccoli, cabbages, calabrese, radishes
  • Onions and roots – onions, garlic, leeks shallots, carrots, parsnips.

Non-rotational approaches -there are methods that don’t utilise rotation but keep soil fertility in check by combining different plant properties. One of these is ‘The Three Sisters’ method of mixed cropping by grouping corn, beans and squash together.

*Note on cardboard: The use of cardboard is not generally advised in organic certified systems. This is because of the variability in components like glue, adhesives, inks – as well as the ambiguity of the sources of the cardboard. As a sustainable allotmenter, weigh up the pros and cons and decide what is best for you.If you do use cardboard, be sure to remove tapes and staples and opt for blank brown sheets.

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Starting a nature-friendly allotment (2024)

FAQs

How do you start an allotment? ›

Starting out on an allotment
  1. First… take stock. ...
  2. Clearing weeds and unwanted vegetation. If you've inherited an overgrown plot, don't despair. ...
  3. Start a compost heap. ...
  4. Next.... ...
  5. Protect the soil. ...
  6. Planning your allotment. ...
  7. Keep your shed in good state. ...
  8. Ask for advice.

What's the easiest thing to grow in an allotment? ›

Top 10 Easy to Grow Vegetables For Your Garden Or Allotment
  1. Courgettes. Courgettes are one of the easiest and most prolific vegetables to grow. ...
  2. Broad beans. ...
  3. Mange tout. ...
  4. Peas. ...
  5. French beans. ...
  6. Rocket. ...
  7. Chicories. ...
  8. Leeks.

What is the best layout for an allotment? ›

The standard layout of an allotment is a central path stretching from the front to the rear of the plot, with smaller paths leading off and giving access to the beds, which line the sides of the plot. Herbs are kept at the front, fruit and storage at the back, and the vegetable beds in-between.

Is having an allotment hard work? ›

Allotments can use up a lot of time, so require some planning. Go for a plot size suited to your needs - half a plot is adequate for most people and ideal for beginners. This might need eight hours' work a week for inexperienced gardeners, but half that for experienced ones.

What are the rules of allotments? ›

Keeping the plot to in reasonable state; weed-free and tidy. Not to use for commercial use; for personal use only. Not to cause any issues for the occupiers of other allotments or obstruct any path used by the other occupiers of surrounding allotments. No subletting the plot without the written consent of the landlord.

How to make a no dig allotment? ›

Create or extend existing beds by smothering grass and/or weeds with a double layer of cardboard, weighted down with mulch. Weight the cardboard down by applying a thick mulch (10-15cm of organic matter) on top. If you want to plant up the bed straight away, wet the cardboard before adding the mulch on top.

What is a typical allotment plan? ›

The traditional style of allotment is fruit and vegetables grown in beds dug directly in the ground. The layout of the beds is optional, but true traditionalists would say that allotments of this style should have one large bed the full length of the allotment with a path running along one side.

What is the best size for an allotment? ›

Suitable for...
  • A full allotment plot is 10 rods (approximately 250 sq m/300 sq yd), but half plots are usually available if this is too much to manage.
  • Most, but not all, sites have water; but check what other facilities are available, such as storage sheds,

How to create allotment paths? ›

Paths. These need to be weed-free, as much as the beds. I use cardboard to mulch paths for 6–9 months, enough time to kill most weeds. You then need to put more cardboard on top every 3 months, before weeds start growing through the older, decaying cardboard.

What are the disadvantages of having an allotment? ›

The downside is that they do need constant attention for good results. They can also be expensive to get started: tools, seed, manures, and fertiliser all add up. An allotment can produce lots of vegetables, although if you often eat potatoes this won't be such a concern as these will be plentiful.

When should you dig an allotment? ›

Once you've got your allotment, it's best to start clearing it as soon as possible. The ideal time to clear is in autumn and winter. This is when plants are dormant, so it's easy to get on top of weeds before they start growing again in spring.

What is the difference between a garden and an allotment? ›

Such plots are formed by subdividing a piece of land into a few or up to several hundred parcels that are assigned to individuals or families. Such parcels are cultivated individually, contrary to other community garden types where the entire area is tended collectively by a group of people.

What will I need for an allotment? ›

Allotment Tools & Equipment
  • Water Pump (or other water supply) Access to water, and how easy it is to water crops during the height of summer, is one of the most important considerations when planning an allotment. ...
  • Watering Can(s) ...
  • Spade. ...
  • Rake. ...
  • Hoe. ...
  • Wheelbarrow. ...
  • Garden Incinerator. ...
  • Muck.

How do allotments work? ›

With an allotment, half of the allotted amount is deducted from your mid-month pay, and that amount remains in the system until the other half is deducted from your end-of-month pay. At that time, the entire amount is submitted to the designated recipient.

How are allotments made? ›

Today, most allotment gardens are on land owned by the municipality, which rents the land to an allotment association. The association in turn gives each member a plot of land.

How long does it take to dig an allotment? ›

Try limiting a digging session to no more than 1 or 2 hours. If not using immediately (see step 3 below), put the cover back on freshly dug areas. Digging will bring weed seed buried in the soil back to the surface, and this may germinate.

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